Using just a few skin care products each day can cause potentially dangerous levels of chemical build up if those products aren’t made with natural ingredients.

According to a study conducted in 2006 by Chemical Safe Skincare Research, the average woman uses 12 toiletries each day, which cumulatively contain as many as 175 different chemicals.  Since about 60% of the products applied to the skin are absorbed, an average woman will absorb five pounds of chemicals each year, according to the research.

That wouldn’t necessarily pose a problem if those ingredients were organic, as they would then merely interact with the body’s natural processes and be expelled.

The problem arises, however, when many of those ingredients are synthetic. Although most of the 10,500 or so man-made chemicals that are used in skin care products don’t cause harmful side effects, between 2,000 and 3,000 ingredients may cause reactions ranging skin irritations and allergies to hormonal disruptions, birth defects and even cancer.

In fact, most scientists agree that at least 80% of the more than 200 different types of cancer are caused by toxic synthetic chemicals.

Less severe effects of chemical build up include a relatively new and somewhat controversial condition called Multiple Chemical Sensitivity (MCS). This chronic condition, which has also been called toxic injury, chemical injury, 20th Century Syndrome, environmental illness, Sick Building Syndrome, idiopathic environmental intolerance, and toxicant-induced loss of tolerance (TILT), is characterized by symptoms that recur in response to low levels of exposure to certain chemicals. Symptoms include runny nose, itchy eyes, headache, scratchy throat, ear ache, scalp pain, mental confusion or sleepiness, palpitations of the heart, upset stomach, nausea and/or diarrhea, abdominal cramping, aching joints; many sufferers simply feel sick or unwell much of the time.

Although several medical organizations reject MCS as a true disease, clinical studies have shown that its symptoms can be reproduced with repeated exposure to chemicals and once that exposure stops, symptoms of MCS often disappear. The U.S. National Institutes of Health also notes that based upon their genetic makeup, some people may be more prone to MCS than others.

With a rising number of products now labeled “organic”, there is more confusion than ever about what this term actually means and how it applies to skin care products.

At its most basic level, the word “organic” refers to products that contain ingredients grown and harvested without the use of synthetic fertilizers, pesticides or plant growth regulators. Instead, organic farmers rely on crop rotation, crop residues, animal manure and mechanical cultivation to maintain soil productivity and tilth to control weeds, insects and other pests. Worldwide, about 75 million acres of land are devoted to this type of farming, according to the Research Institute of Organic Agriculture.

Unfortunately, many skin care products and cosmetics that are promoted as organic still contain harmful ingredients and so are not 100% natural. This is because in most countries, including the United States, there are no government-approved certifications or guidelines for beauty products so any product can claim to be natural or organic. In fact, the U.S. government cannot mandate safety studies of cosmetic products or ingredients, and only 13% of the more than 10,000 ingredients in personal care products have ever been reviewed for safety by cosmetic industry reviewers.

Because of this, a rising number of “organic” skin care products contain only a single-digit percentage of organic ingredients.

For example, one common ingredient used in “natural” beauty products is
sodium laureth/lauryl sulfate, or SLES/SLS. Used often in anti-freeze and engine degreasers, this ingredient can irritate the eyes and skin. But because it is derived from coconut oil, some products simply list “coconut oil” on their labels when they actually contain SLES/SLS.

Other harmful ingredients often found in “organic” skin care products include ethyl paraben, propyl paraben, butyl paraben and isobutyl paraben or E216; these substances are commonly used as preservatives, even though they have been linked to different types of cancers.

Many consumers don’t understand that the word “organic” on a product label doesn’t necessarily preclude such ingredients. In the Organic Consumers Association’s January 2007 survey of 5,500 purchasers of organic products, nearly half of respondents said they thought that a product labeled as “Made with organic ingredients” contains either “all” or “nearly all” organic ingredients. In reality, however, most personal care products using this label are made up of 70% or fewer organic ingredients.

To help inform the public about the true composition of beauty products, the Environmental Working Group has established the industry’s first comprehensive online database of cosmetic ingredients.  Called Skin Deep (www.cosmeticdatabase.com), it scores products based upon their potential health hazards and the degree to which those risks are unknown.

Skin Deep includes details on almost one quarter of personal care products currently sold, including 22,722 products with 6,771 ingredients; since it was launched in 2004, consumers have used Skin Deep to perform more than 23 million product searches. Product categories covered include makeup (blushes, concealers, mascaras, bronzers, glitters, eye shadows, eyeliners, foundations, lipsticks, lip liners and powders); skin care products (cleansing products, deodorants, feminine care products, hair removal products, medicated products, lip balms, lotions, sunscreens and sun care products); hair care products (shampoos, conditioners, scalp treatments, hair sprays, hair colors, relaxers, styling lotions, hair loss products, styling mousses); eye care products; nail care products; baby care items and oral care products.

Over the past few years, a wide array of products and equipment has been launched that claims to firm the skin.

Equipment includes laser and radio frequency devices that physicians use to stimulate collagen production and increase firmness on the face and body. While clinical studies have shown these treatments to be highly effective, however, the high equipment prices
of $30,000 and more have resulted in procedure fees of at least $300 to $800; doctors charge over $1,500 for treatment with some devices, such as the Thermage
ThermaCool.

Topical products offer firming for considerably lower cost. Many different products have long been available, formulated from both synthetic and natural ingredients.

Synthetic products are many include preparations formulated from proprietary blends of ingredients such as Avon’s Bust Sculpt. This product contains a combination of both petroleum-based and other ingredients that Avon calls Virtual Bra Technology.

Natural firming lotions are similar, but only use ingredients derived from organic plant materials. For example, Paul Penders’ Kigelia Lipo and Phyto – Tocotrienol Firmer Curves contains extract prepared from the Kigelia Africana tree. The bark, leaves and the fruit pulp of this tree contain several flavonoids and glycosides that have been shown
in clinical studies to help regenerate collagen and elasin in the skin, thereby increasing firmness and in fact, African women have traditionally made preparations from the kigelia tree to increase bust firmness.

In tests conducted by France-based Laboratoires Prod'Hyg, hydroglycolic extract of Kigelia Africana improved one measure of bust firmness by more than 70% when applied once daily over a 3-week period. Dr. Gatot, a senior chemist at Paul Penders, notes that the company’s Kigelia Lipo and Phyto – Tocotrienol Firmer Curves works so well, that some customers, both male and female, use it to firm the skin on the face.

Because kigelia is only available in relatively small quantities, however, it is not widely used in firming creams. Other natural bust firming agents include pueraria mirifica, which comes from the White Kwao Krua herb in Thailand, silybum marianum, alchemilla vulgaris, equisetum arvense, glycine soja, wheat germ oil, alfa alfa and radish.

Many women around the world regularly use skin lightening creams. Some want to fade the dark spots that often appear with age, while others seek a fairer complexion.

A large number of the products they use are based upon hydroquinone, a chemical that was accidentally discovered in the U.S. during the second World War and has proven to be the most effective skin lightener yet developed. However, synthetic hydroquinone has been identified as a carcinogen, with ongoing usage linked to increased risk of cancer. After high large numbers of African women who had used 10% hydroquinone developed various forms of cancer, countries around the world began limiting usage of hydroquinone. France has taken a particularly aggressive stance, banning all hydroquinone products. In the U.S., though, many products containing 2% hydroquinone are sold over-the-counter (OTC) while 4% products are still available by prescription.

To provide a safer solution to skin lightening, some manufacturers have introduced products containing alternative skin lightening agents such as bearberry and grapefruit extracts. Paul Penders' Aqualuna skin lightener contains both of these natural skin lighteners.

Bearberry is an evergreen shrub found in underwoods and rocks throughout Europe, America and Asia. Its leaves contain 5% to 15% arbutin, which is a natural derivative of hydroquinone but is more stable and less aggressive. Arbutin is therefore gentler to the skin, provoking neither irritation nor sensitization. Importantly, it has not been linked to cancer. When used regularly on a daily basis, arbutin can reduce the melanin that causes skin discolorations. However, by competing with certain enzymes and inhibiting the chain of tyrosine oxidations by tyrosinase, arbutin can also prevent the formation of new pigment in the skin. This can be both a blessing and a curse, preventing the formation of new discolorations but also potentially causing an over-lightening effect if it is used too frequently.

Grapefruit extract, which is rich in citric and malic acids, is an excellent astringent and antiseptic. It is often used for products designed to address oily skin. The exfoliant effect of grapefruit extract removes dead skin cells, and thereby also helps to reduce surface pigmentation irregularities.

Other natural ingredients may also be added to skin lightening preparations to balance the effects of the lightening agents. For example, rice extract may be used to smooth and moisturize the skin, offsetting the drying effects of grapefruit extract. Rice contains oligosaccharides, carbohydrates that have been shown to retain moisture and help hydrate the skin.

Many people erroneously believe that skin care products designed to be used on the face can also be used on the body, and vice versa. While such mixing and matching may not cause any harm, however, products won’t deliver their maximum benefit unless they’re used for the purpose they were intended. This is because the skin on the face is quite different from the skin on the body.

For example, the face contains a relatively high density of sebaceous (oil) glands compared with the body. These glands are particularly active in young people, men, and many women with normal skin, causing greasiness in the best cases and acne in the worst. Although the back and chest are also rich in oil glands, the arms and legs are not, so they tend to loose moisture in winter, dry and windy climates. Therefore, products formulated for the face must be less greasy, while those designed for the body should provide greater hydration.

Certain areas of the face also require special treatment. Skin around the eyes is particularly thin and fragile, and ages 5 to 10 times faster than the rest of the face. The most effective products for this area tend to be those with a smooth, oily base. For women with an oily T-zone, products must be non-greasy while still providing moisture to other areas. Dry skin needs especially rich products that will provide intensive therapy and lock in moisture.

There are also other unique problems for facial products. First, most people use several different products on their face. This can include cleansers, toners, moisturizers, masks, specialty products such as blemish removers and hydrators as well as color cosmetics. This creates a kind of giant mixing pot in which the ingredients can interact and potentially cause irritation or other problems. Because of this, skin care products are typically formulated with great care to ensure that components are highly stable and not likely to create undesired side effects when they come in contact with other ingredients.

Also, skin care products are more likely than body care products to contain a sunscreen. This is because, barring climate and cultural variations, the face is far more likely to be exposed to sunlight than the body. Even lip balms now routinely include a sun blocking agent.

Lastly, consumers tend to be most interested in maintaining the youthfulness of the face, so products are increasingly formulated with special ingredients that will enhance tone, texture and vitality.

These factors all add to the price of facial products, making them several times more expensive to create, produce and sell than body care products.

Nonetheless, many people have experienced good results from intermingling facial and body products. For example, Paul Penders senior chemist Dr. Gatot says that some customers have used the company’s Kigelia Lipo and Phyto – Tocotrienol Firmer Curves to tighten the skin on their face. Originally designed for the bust, even men have reported firmer skin around the jaw and cheekbones after using the product.

Creams and lotions that cleanse tone or moisturize the skin are all prepared according to a similar formula. Most of the product consists of a base to which active ingredients, fragrance and preservatives are added. The base is a fairly standard preparation, while active agents and scents are often varied according to the desired intention of the product.

The base, which may be formulated from either natural or synthetic ingredients, typically includes oil, cleansing agents, thickeners and an emulsifier in varying proportions. Cleansers contain less oil, while moisturizers contain more. Thickeners add body to the product, so it can be more easily applied, with creams contains more thickening agent and lotions containing less. An emulsifier is used to chemically join the oil and water-based ingredients.

Natural base ingredients usually consist of nut oils like olive, almond, coconut or flaxseed oil, beeswax, plant-based waxes and cocoa butter, while synthetic ingredients often include petrochemical derivatives. Many different thickeners and emulsifiers are used, which may be either natural or synthetic.

Active ingredients are then added to the base to bring about specific desired benefits. These include natural plant extracts as well as other agents such as vitamins, acids and other compounds. Because the body simply eliminates any excess material it cannot use, there is no benefit to incorporating very high proportions of active ingredients and this component of the overall product is usually small.

Fragrance may also be either natural or synthetic. Natural scents typically consist of essential oils such as lavender, jasmine, cinnamon, peppermint, lemon and others. Synthetic fragrances include more than 3,000 different ingredients, most of which are derived from petroleum. They include phthalates, or phthalate esters, which are a top hazard in fragrance mixtures and have been linked with allergies in children, birth defects, toxicity and damage to adult reproductive, adrenal, liver, and kidney organs. Although some manufacturers have removed these chemicals from their products, a recent study conducted by the Environmental Working Group found phthalates in nearly three-quarters of 72 name-brand products tested.

Preservatives are used to maintain the integrity of active ingredients and extend a product’s shelf life. They are particularly important for natural products, which can quickly become rancid without protection.

Aside from changes to diet and exercise, which typically provide only limited benefits, there are two key ways to reduce cellulite: application of topical products that stimulate blood circulation, and medical treatment to break up fatty deposits beneath the skin.

Cellulite appears as dimpled skin or fat on or around the outer thighs, buttocks and other body areas. It is caused by the fibrous septae, the underlying supports of the skin, not holding the skin together evenly. The skin is tethered down by these string-like tissues that pull it inward, toward the interior of the body. The tension of these strings pulls sections of fat in along with them; this, as well as the body’s inability to completely remove toxins and other cellular debris, causes the fat cells to increase as much as 300 times their original size and stick together within the connective tissue fibers. In women, the fibers connect to the undersurface of the skin and run at a 90-degree angle, which allows bulging and puckering. In men, these fibers run at a 45-degree angle, so the fat is less likely to accumulate in pockets.

This physiology, as well as the effects of estrogen, heredity and age, makes women more susceptible to cellulite than men. The condition usually starts in puberty as hormones change and becomes more noticeable with age. Nearly 80% of women over age 18 have some degree of cellulite. A person does not have to be overweight to develop cellulite and dimpled skin is not always reduced by weight loss.

Topical treatment of cellulite is the easiest and least expensive option. Products are designed to stimulate blood flow, thereby enhancing the body’s ability to eliminate toxic cellular buildup. They may be either synthetic or natural.

Synthetic cellulite products contain ingredients engineered in a laboratory, often from petrochemical derivatives. They include proprietary ingredients such as Liporeductyl, a synthetic peptide contained in Dermaxine’s Cellumend.

Natural products often contain caffeine or green tea, which has been shown to effectively boost circulation when applied topically. Paul Penders Body Firming Cellulite Serum uniquely contains pegaga, an herb found in the Malaysian rainforest that is used for both medicinal and cosmetic purposes to stimulate blood flow.

Medical treatment of cellulite is the other alternative. Although liposuction reduces cellulite for some people but not others, several newer procedures including endermologie, radio frequency and laser provide more consistent results. Each, however, requires a series of treatments costing from $150 to $500 per session.

Endermology, also known as liponic sculpturing, operates on the principle of mechanically smoothing the skin by stretching or separating the fat from the fibrous septae, using a machine to push and pull the skin into position. It has become extremely popular, with tens of thousands of systems in use throughout the world. Some people, however, need several dozen treatments to see noticeable results then must continue treatment to maintain results.

Other equipment like Syneron’s VelaSmooth couple massage with radio frequency and infrared light energy to heat the fat. This makes fat cells softer and more amenable to mechanical manipulation. In clinical studies, participants experience an average improvement in cellulite of 65%, although anecdotally, several physicians who use the device claim the improvement is closer to 25%.

Cynosure’s Tri-Active diode laser, which was introduced in early 2003, uses a three-step process to address cellulite. The device first delivers localized cooling that quickly reduces excessive accumulations of fluid that make tissue appear puckered. Second, Tri-Active performs a rhythmic massage that simulates the lymphatic system and promotes elimination of cellular wastes and toxins. It then delivers laser to stimulate microcirculation at a sub-dermal level. This progressive massaging and stimulating action on the connective and adipose tissue promotes waste elimination and tissue oxygenation, restoring alignment of the connective tissue. Although results are usually good, practitioners typically recommend a series of 15 or more treatments to start, coupled with a low-fat diet and regular exercise.

Many consumers don’t realize that the manner in which skin care products are prepared can be equally important as what they contain. This is particularly true for cold processing, which helps protect fragile ingredients from losing their strength.

Most cosmetics are produced under hot temperatures. This method has been used for many years as it is relatively inexpensive and also helps kill bacteria and other harmful contaminants. However, it can also damage many components of the products, reducing their bioactivity and causing them to be less effective. So products that are made in a hot manufacturing process may lose some of their potency, even though they contain advanced or otherwise beneficial ingredients.

Cold processing solves this problem by keeping ingredients at very low temperatures throughout the manufacturing cycle. All stages of production are carried out in freezing or near-freezing conditions, ensuring that ingredients retain their optimal strength. This is especially important for herbal products, since herbs can lose much of their potency when heated.

This approach is similar to that taken by a rising number of juice and other food producers, who are switching from pasteurization to cold processing as a way to preserve more of their products’ natural flavor and nutrients. Years ago, drinks like orange juice were heated to near-boiling temperatures in order to kill harmful microbes. Now, juice makers are increasingly using cold processing technologies such as electron, gamma or x-ray irradiation which decontaminate more gently.

Not all cosmetics can be made in a cold process, however. Those containing hard materials to be melted must be produced using heat. For example, lipsticks are typically formulated from a base of wax. Although natural lipstick manufacturers, such as Paul Penders, may use softer waxes like as beeswax or plant-based waxes while other manufacturers use hard petroleum-based waxes, both must use heat to melt the wax in order to incorporate other ingredients including color, emollients and preservatives into the final product.

On the other hand, the vast majority of shampoos and conditioners are produced in a cold process because heat is not required to combine the ingredients.

In early 2007, a cancer-causing petrochemical was found in dozens of children’s bath products and adults’ personal care products, in some cases at levels more than twice the U.S. Food and Drug Administration’s (FDA) recommended maximum.

Laboratory tests revealed the presence of 1,4-Dioxane in products such as Hello Kitty Bubble Bath, Huggies Baby Wash, Johnson’s Baby Wash, Scooby-Doo Bubble Bath and Sesame Street Bubble Bath. The tests also found the carcinogen in Clairol Herbal Essences shampoo, Olay Complete Body Wash and many other products for adults.

1,4-Dioxane is a petroleum-derived contaminant considered a human carcinogen by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and the National Toxicology Program. It is also on California’s Proposition 65 list of chemicals linked to cancer and birth defects.

But because it is produced during manufacturing, the FDA does not require it to be listed as an ingredient on product labels. Also, the agency has little authority or enforcement capacity over the cosmetics industry.

The FDA has been measuring 1,4-Dioxane levels since 1979 and is working with manufacturers to reduce levels on a voluntary basis.

In 2000, the FDA recommended that cosmetic products not contain 1,4-Dioxane at concentrations greater than 10 parts per million; yet 15% of products tested exceeded these guidelines. This limit, however, also does not take into account that people exposed to 1,4-Dioxane from shampoo may be exposed at the same time to 1,4-Dioxane from bubble bath, body wash and other products.

The tests were conducted by West Coast Analytical Service, an independent testing laboratory specializing in trace chemical analysis, and results were announced by the Campaign for Safer Cosmetics.

As modern science continues to advance, researchers are increasingly designing new products that can help slow the aging process. Many of these products provide excellent results, however, a rising number have been shown to cause harmful side effects. In some cases, these reactions can be severe – some of these products have been shown to be carcinogenic, or associated with the development of cancer.

Because the ingredients in cosmetic, hair care and skin care products are not regulated, manufacturers can keep using these ingredients even though some have been linked to very dangerous reactions. The table below lists harmful ingredients that are still found in many personal care products.

Stress isn’t just an unpleasant emotion: it’s the cause of a complex set of physiological changes in the body that can result in everything from dull, lifeless skin to acne flares, premature wrinkling, dandruff and an increased risk of heart disease.

The effects of stress on the skin begin with adrenaline. When confronted with a stressful situation, the body produces this “fight or flight” hormone. Adrenaline prepares the body for action in emergency situations, boosting the supply of oxygen and energy-giving glucose to the brain and muscles. At the same time, however, adrenaline re-directs blood flow away from the skin, thereby decreasing the skin’s supply of oxygen.

When this happens repeatedly, such as through the chronic stress induced by ongoing tension at home or at work, the skin doesn’t receive the nourishment it needs. This can result in dull skin tone, loss of elasticity and overactive sebaceous (oil) glands, leading to acne breakouts. Over prolonged periods, stressed skin often shows signs of early wrinkling and discoloration when internal regenerative processes break down. Stress also slows the skin’s rate of cellular turnover, so it takes longer for fresh, new skin cells to reach the skin’s surface.

Aside from eliminating the source of stress, easy ways to mitigate its effects include reducing caffeine intake, increasing consumption of antioxidants and supplementing skin care regimens.

Like stress, caffeine elevates adrenaline levels by altering the chemistry of the brain. It does this by inhibiting the action of adenosine.

Stress can also weaken the immune system and inhibit the important work of antioxidants, which slow the creation of damaging free radicals in the body. Free radicals are highly reactive molecules responsible for everything from killing harmful bacteria to increasing the risk of cancer, arthritis, Alzheimer’s disease, diabetes and skin problems.

In 1956, Dr. Denham Harman proposed the free radical theory of aging, suggesting that the aging process begins at the deepest cellular level and is caused largely by free radicals. These damaged cells attack healthy cells, causing age spots, wrinkles, thinning skin, lack of firmness and dullness. This occurs as the free radicals attack collagen, a protein that gives the skin its suppleness as well as its ability to repair itself.

Antioxidants slow or prevent the creation of free radicals in the body. They include some vitamins (such as vitamins C and E), some minerals (such as selenium), and flavonoids, which are found in fruits, red wine, and some teas. Antioxidant supplements can also be purchased.

A rising number of nutrition experts, however, recommend dietary modifications instead of supplements to increase antioxidant intake. This is because the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) does not regulate dietary supplements in the same way it regulates medication, so a dietary supplement can be sold with limited or no research on its effects.

The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) recently analyzed antioxidant levels in more than 100 different foods. It found that cranberries, blueberries, and blackberries contain the highest amounts of antioxidant among fruits; beans, artichokes, and russet potatoes lead among the vegetables while pecans, walnuts, and hazelnuts have the most antioxidants in the nut category. Other good sources of antioxidants include pomegranates, prunes, raspberries, strawberries, apples, cherries and plums.

In June 2007, the controversial new REACH (Registration, Evaluation and Authorisation of Chemicals) law came into effect in the European Union. Taking seven years and 1,000 pages to pass, REACH is the most complex law in EU history.

Aiming to protect consumers and the environment from harmful and unsafe chemicals, the law requires manufacturers to ensure that over 30,000 chemicals have been tested and reviewed by the newly created European Chemicals Agency (EChA). For 1,500 high risk substances, manufacturers will have to prove "adequate control." The EChA will ban ingredients posing a significant threat and ensure that cosmetic and other companies use alternatives.

The law also advocates using alternatives to animal testing, so that data on toxicity to humans is obtained using means other than experiments on vertebrate animals. Since the passage of REACH, L'Oreal has announced that it will conduct safety tests on human skin cells and tissue from animals slaughtered for food, rather than live animals, to collect the new information required by the law.

REACH replaces 40 separate chemicals laws in the EU. It also extends prior cosmetics laws that were based upon risk assessment and responds to ongoing calls from the scientific community for bans on confirmed and likely carcinogenic, mutagenic and reprotoxic substances in cosmetic products.

Although there was little existing safety information on 99% of the man thousands of chemicals developed in the EU before 1981, the EU had banned several dangerous chemicals that remain legal in the United States, including phthalates in cosmetics.

REACH is expected to put more pressure on law makers in the United States to impose tougher controls on the usage of toxic chemicals, since under the country’s Toxic Substances Control Act, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has little legal authority to ban or restrict chemicals in use before 1976 because it must first prove they pose "an unreasonable risk."

It should be noted, however, that there are several shortcomings to the new European law. First, manufacturers have 11 years to register product ingredients, leaving more than a decade until all the ingredients in cosmetics products will be fully disclosed. Also, if a product was manufactured outside the EU and imported, it is not regulated under REACH.

In June 2007, the Environmental Working Group (EWG) released a study showing that over 650 sunscreen products used in the United States are either ineffective or cause harmful side effects. That represents 83% of the 785 name-brand sunscreens with SPF ratings or 15 or higher that the EWG analyzed.

A full 12% of all of the sunscreens analyzed by the EWG protect only from sunburn (ultraviolet B or UVB radiation), containing no ingredients that protect from skin damage and aging, immune system problems, and potential skin cancer (ultraviolet A or UVA radiation).

According to the report, many of the problems derive from the complex formulation of newer sunscreens. For example, some sunscreen chemicals can break down when they are exposed to sunlight so those products must be formulated with stabilizers. The EWG noted that 54% of the products it examined contain ingredients that may be unstable alone or in combination; this raises questions about whether the products last as long as their label claims they do.

Just 17% of the products analyzed for the study were found to be safe and effective, blocking both UVA and UVB radiation, remaining stable in sunlight, and containing few or no ingredients with significant known or suspected health hazards. Many of these products contain micronized and nano-scale zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, which provide strong UVA protection. Repeated studies have found that these ingredients do not penetrate healthy skin, indicating that consumers' exposures would be minimal.

However, studies on other nano-scale materials have raised concerns about their toxic properties. These particles are so small that they can penetrate the skin, presenting as yet unknown health risks.

As of mid 2007, the U.S. Food & Drug Administration (FDA) has failed to approve several effective UVA filters available in Europe that could replace these potentially dangerous nano-scale ingredients. So far, the FDA has approved just 17 sunscreen chemicals for use in the U.S., while there are at least 29 such chemicals approved for use in the E.U.

According to the Environmental Working Group, one in five cosmetic products may be contaminated with carcinogens. Those are impurities that raise the risk of cancer.

Many of these carcinogens are hiding on the product label behind the term “fragrance”. Although manufacturers must list all ingredients in skin care and hair care products, in many countries including the United States, they can list “fragrance” as a general category instead of detailing each ingredient.

This is a problem because fragrances can themselves be comprised of complicated mixtures of hundreds of chemicals, some of which can be dangerous. Many well-known fragrance components have been linked to allergies, skin reactions, endocrine and hormone disruption, and even birth defects.

For example, phthalates are plasticizing agents that can cause birth defects in the reproductive system of boys and lower sperm-motility in adult men. Phthalates were found in nearly three-quarters of 72 products tested recently by the Environmental Working Group, although the term "phthalate” was not listed on any of the product labels.

As a result of consumer pressure, L’Oreal, Revlon, Estee Lauder, and Unilever have recently agreed to remove two phthalates, DEHP and DBP, from their products sold worldwide. A great many other manufacturers, however, continue to sell skin and hair care products that contain these toxic ingredients.

Other products include artificial musks. In laboratory studies, these have been linked to skin irritation, hormone disruption, and cancer. Many fragrances can also cause asthma and trigger asthma attacks.

In early 2007, a cancer-causing petrochemical was found in dozens of children’s bath products and adults’ personal care products, in some cases at levels more than twice the U.S. Food and Drug Administration’s (FDA) recommended maximum. Laboratory tests revealed the presence of 1,4-Dioxane in products such as Hello Kitty Bubble Bath, Huggies Baby Wash, Johnson’s Baby Wash, Scooby-Doo Bubble Bath and Sesame Street Bubble Bath. The tests also found the carcinogen in Clairol Herbal Essences shampoo, Olay Complete Body Wash and many other products for adults.

1,4-Dioxane is a petroleum-derived contaminant considered a human carcinogen by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and the National Toxicology Program. It is also on California’s Proposition 65 list of chemicals linked to cancer and birth defects.

Based upon its research the Environmental Working Group estimates that 1,4-Dioxane could be present in up to 43% of all body firming lotions, 36% of facial moisturizers, 35% of anti-aging products, 34% of body lotions and 33% of eye creams.

In 2000, the FDA recommended that cosmetic products not contain 1,4-Dioxane at concentrations greater than 10 parts per million; yet 15% of products tested exceeded these guidelines. This limit, however, also does not take into account that people exposed to 1,4-Dioxane from shampoo may be exposed at the same time to 1,4-Dioxane from bubble bath, body wash and other products.

A study published in early 2007 by researchers at the University of Missouri-Columbia has linked chemicals found in many prepared foods and beauty care products to obesity.

According to scientist Frederick vom Saal, the author of the paper, endocrine-disrupting chemicals found in plastics and pesticides can change the functioning of a fetus's genes, altering the metabolic system and predisposing him or her to weight gain later in life. Of the roughly 55,000 man-made chemicals in the world, about 1,000 may cause this type of endocrine disruption, he says.

Obesity is on the rise worldwide. In the United States, more than two thirds of the population is overweight and one third is obese, according to the Centers for Disease Control. Obesity is defined as a body mass index (BMI) of 30 or more while persons who are overweight have a BMI of 25 or higher. BMI is determined by dividing a person's body weight in kilograms by their height in meters squared or by using the conversion with pounds and inches squared.

Excess weight is a serious health problem as it has been linked to a range of serious conditions including cardiovascular disease, hypertension, cancer, diabetes mellitus type 2, sleep apnea, and osteoarthritis.

In the study, vom Saal linked the global explosion in obesity over the last three decades to consumers' massive exposure to chemicals in foods, cosmetics, skin care and hair care products and home cleaning products. Living a more natural lifestyle that incorporates organic products, he says, can minimize exposure to these chemicals and thereby reduce the risk of obesity.

Organic products contain ingredients that have been produced without the aid of synthetic fertilizers, pesticides or plant growth regulators.

Many consumers don’t realize the hidden dangers lurking in product fragrances. This is because, in the U.S. as in many other countries, manufacturers don’t have to specify on product labels exactly what ingredients a fragrance contains.

With many “fragrances” now comprising complicated mixtures of hundreds of ingredients, and the U.S. Food & Drug Administration (FDA) not requiring safety tests of cosmetic products, this makes the exact composition of a “fragrance” a black box of many different, untested chemicals.

In the worst cases, some of the chemical cocktails listed on product labels merely as a “fragrance” have been linked to allergies, skin reactions, hormone disruptions, birth defects and even cancer.

This problem isn’t confined to just a few products, since about 95% of 3,000 the different fragrance ingredients now used consist of low cost synthetic compounds derived from petroleum.

Phthalates, or phthalate esters, are a top hazard in fragrance mixtures. These are a group of chemical compounds that are mainly added to plastics to increase their flexibility. Certain phthalate esters are also used in the manufacture of nail polishes, paint, adhesives and perfumes. In 2004, a joint Swedish-Danish research team found a strong link between allergies in children and the phthalates; this study was later published in The Journal of Environmental Health Perspectives. Subsequent studies have also linked phthalates with birth defects, toxicity and damage to adult reproductive, adrenal, liver, and kidney organs. Although some manufacturers have removed these chemicals from their products, a recent study conducted by the Environmental Working Group found phthalates in nearly three-quarters of 72 name-brand products tested.

Artificial musks can also cause unintended side effects. These chemicals remain popular, however, since the price of natural musk, which is derived mainly from a gland of the male musk deer, has become prohibitively expensive. Of the three primary types of synthetic musk (nitromusk, polycyclic musk and macrocyclic musk), nitromusk is particularly dangerous as it has been linked to reproductive and fertility problems in women at high levels of exposure. Because of this, the EU has banned the usage of some nitromusks in cosmetics and personal care products, but in the United States, musk chemicals remain unregulated, and safe levels of exposure have not yet been set.

Many synthetic fragrance components are considered allergens and can both cause asthma and trigger asthma attacks. But when the Environmental Working Group conducted a survey in 2005 of U.S. cosmetic industry ingredient reviews, it found that for about one third of all ingredients, allergen and sensitizer determinations were made inadequately.

In contrast, natural fragrance ingredients such as essential oils are obtained entirely from plants. When properly prepared, they have not been associated with significant adverse reactions. However, natural ingredients tend to be more expensive than synthetic chemicals, resulting in fewer skin care product manufacturers using them.

Containing water, oils, peptides and carbohydrates, cosmetics can easily become contaminated with bacteria, viruses and fungi that can spoil the product. Because of this, manufacturers must use preservatives to keep products from spoiling and extend shelf life. Natural products, such as those containing olive or coconut oils, are particularly prone to becoming rancid if preservatives are not added.

Although petrochemical-based parabens very effectively kill unwanted bacteria and keep skin care products fresh, many have also been linked to cancer. Unfortunately, they’re still commonly used in skin care and cosmetic products because they’re relatively cheap.

According to “Preservatives for Cosmetics” by David Steinberg, methylparaben was used in more than 7,100 products sold in the U.S. in 2003, while propylparaben was found in over 5,800 products, butylparaben was included in more than 2,300 products and other types of paraben, such as ethylparaben, isobutylparaben and isopropylparaben, were found in more than 1,900. Overall, the usage of these preservatives has remained relatively constant since 1996, with declines in usage of one paraben offset by increases in usage of another.

In 2004, a study reported in the Journal of Applied Toxicology found parabens in samples of breast tumors, indicating a link between these chemicals and breast cancer. While no direct causal relationship has yet been established between parabens and cancer, many researchers believe that heavy usage of antiperspirants and other products containing parabens will eventually be considered a risk factor for cancer.

Formaldehyde, which can be toxic, allergenic, and carcinogenic, is also used as a preservative in cosmetics, as it is also quite inexpensive. However, it is used considerably less often than parabens. In 2003, 139 U.S. skin care products contained formaldehyde, according to Steinberg, compared with 187 in 1996.

Manufacturers are able to keep using these ingredients because cosmetics are not uniformly regulated throughout the world. In the U.S., for example, the Food & Drug Administration (FDA) does not require safety or efficacy testing for preservatives, although it does restrict or prohibit certain ingredients. Hexachlorophene, mercury compounds, bithionol and halogenated saliclanilides are currently not allowed. The EU pre-approves preservatives, with 56 permitted preservatives. Many other countries including Japan have followed the regulatory framework of the EU with “positive” lists for permitted preservatives.

Manufacturers of natural and organic products use non-petroleum-based products such as phenoxyethanol. A colorless glycol ether, phenoxyethanol is an organic compound that has been shown to effectively kill bacteria. It is increasingly used in skin creams, perfumes and insect repellants as well as vaccines. For example, organic product manufacturer Paul Penders uses phenoxyethanol in all of its skin care, hair care, body care and make up products as a safer, albeit somewhat more expensive, alternative to parabens.

Although more and more cosmetics companies are offering natural beauty products made from herbs and other organic ingredients, few have yet incorporated one of the most powerful beauty boosting herbs: pegaga (centilla aesthetica).

Known throughout Asia as “Miracle Hero of the Rainforest”, pegaga is a member of the parsley family and grows wild alongside ordinary grass. About the size of a thumbnail, its clover-like leaves are inconspicuous; but this belies their true capabilities. When used topically or orally, pegaga leaves possess several qualities that cause a chain of beneficial effects in the body.

For example, Paul Penders’ Pegaga Scalp Cleansing Treatment offers both antiseptic and antibacterial action that deep cleans the scalp in a way that is not possible from shampoo alone. This is important, since even small buildups of dirt and bacteria on the head can affect the health and appearance of the hair, causing it to loose luster and vitality. In the worst cases, excessive buildups of debris on the scalp can result in itching and flaking.Pegaga also increases blood circulation to the scalp, thereby stimulating hair growth.

This ability to boost blood circulation has earned pegaga a place in LevensESSENTIE Gold, the proprietary blend of 22 herbs that is contained in all Paul Penders skin care and make up products. When applied to the skin in the form of cleanser, toner, moisturizer or other topical products, pegaga increases blood flow to the area, promoting cellular renewal and healing. This, in turn, results in fresher, healthier skin. Pegaga is also believed to help promote collagen production, leading to firmer, more toned skin.

Dr. Abdul Ghani, a Langkawi-based medical practitioner and researcher in Malay and Arab medical manuscripts, notes that many people in Asia also drink pegaga juice as a means to boost their mental and physical wellbeing. Although clinical studies have not been conducted to verify its effects, people taking pegaga, he says, claim to experience improved memory and better health.

Langkawi, a group of 99 islands located off the coast of Malaysia which recently achieved Geopark status in 2007 due to its unique flora and fauna, is a major source of the world’s pegaga along with India and China.

A rich source of vitamin K, magnesium and calcium, pegaga has been used in traditional Malay medicine for thousands of years to address a variety of ills. Pegaga helps alleviate fatigue and reduces the effects of depression and insomnia. Because it increases brain function, the herb improves memory and concentration. Pegaga also improves circulation, strengthening veins and capillaries, reducing vascular inflammation, improving wound healing, and supporting the heart, liver and kidneys. It is also used to relieve the symptoms of colds and respiratory problems, strengthen the immune system, and treat leprosy.

Indian ayurvedic medicine, a centuries-old practice that is based upon traditional methods of healing, also makes use of pegaga. In tablet form, the herb is used to address eye problems.

These and another applications give pegaga one of the broadest spectrums of use of all herbal remedies and the World Health Organization has therefore classified pegaga as one of the most important plant species in the world.

Like coenzyme Q10 and various proprietary vitamin blends, such as Olay vitamins, pegaga tablets may be taken to achieve both health and beauty benefits. Several vendors, including Paul Penders, currently sell pegaga capsules for this purpose on the Internet. The capsules contain dried pegaga leaves in powder form, with each representing the equivalent of a handful of fresh pegaga.

Like other nutritional supplements, however, pegaga has not been subject to rigorous clinical testing so vendors are limited in the claims they can make about the benefits of pegaga products. While it may initially appear that the solution to this problem would be for pegaga sellers to simply conduct such studies, in practice this is prohibitively expensive for all but the largest manufacturers, since clinical trials typically cost many millions of dollars and take several years to complete. Therefore, pegaga is likely to remain one of the best kept beauty secrets, at least through the foreseeable future.

At a luncheon hosted at Kilim Geoforest Park in late August by natural cosmetics manufacturer Paul Penders, the General Manager of Langkawi Development Authority (LADA) described his vision for the island following its designation earlier this year as a UNESCO Geopark.

“Langkawi was the first Geopark in Malaysia as well as Southeast Asia,” said Dato’ Kamarulzaman Abdul Ghani. “We want to lead the way for the region to develop more Geoparks.”

Derived from the word, “geology”, or study of the earth, the term Geopark refers to an area that has significant rock formations as well as unique landscapes. In 2000, the United Nations Education, Social and Culture Organization (UNESCO) established the concept as a means to encourage appreciation and protection of the environment. Since then, more than 60 Geoparks have been designated around the world. Eighteen of these are in China. In mid 2007, UNESCO updated its requirements so that each country can now have only two Geoparks.

Designation as a Geopark could provide an important boost for tourism, as a way to publicize an area’s natural beauty.

General Manager Kamarulzaman said that Langkawi is being advertised heavily. The emphasis, he said, is on the island’s tourist value, rather than its interest for geologists.

He hopes to retain Langkawi’s natural beauty while expanding its tourist infrastructure. “We envision Langkawi as a friendly, educational, relaxing destination. We don’t want to compete with Phuket,” said the GM.

Phuket is one of Thailand’s most popular tourist destinations and is known for its glittering nightlife and city-like feel.

Over the past 16 years, the Federal Government of Malaysia has invested more than 2 billion ringgits ($700 million) developing the 104 islands of Langkawi. Going forward, said General Manager Kamarulzaman, development will continue on Tuba Island with a new road and observation deck to be built at Wang Buluh cave, a coastal road and a motorcycle crossway at Tuba-Selat Bagan Nyior. Other projects include walkways and an observation deck at Kilim Geopark Forest, boardwalks at Dayang Bunting Lake and new signs at all Langkawi tourist attractions.

The timing of the development coincides with the prediction made by an old island legend. According to the tale, Langkawi was cursed by Mahsuri, a woman who was falsely accused by her mother-in-law of having an affair. The lady vowed that if she were innocent, her blood would flow white after she was put to death, and Langkawi would languish for seven generations. Her blood did reportedly turn white and after many years of relative obscurity, Langkawi is now starting to enjoy a growing tourist trade.

It will take three to five years, however, to see the full effect of Langkawi’s Geopark status, said General Manager Kamarulzaman. Most of the island’s hotels, he said, continue to focus on Langkawi’s white sand beaches.