Acido-Alpha-Hydroxyl-Ceramides: Lipid to strengthen the skin's capacity to retain its moisture level, thereby supporting and sustaining the skin's smoothness, firmness and softness for youthful appearance. Ceramides used by Paul Penders are natural and derived from sunflower extract.

Acetic Acid: Occurs naturally in apples, cocoa, grapes, coffee, oranges, peaches, pineapples, strawberries, (4% in vinegar) and a variety of fruits and plants. Paul Penders uses it as part of his natural preservative system. We do NOT use commonly used chemical preservatives such as parabens (methyl, butyl & propyl parabens) and/or ureas.

Adverse Response: Skin rash caused by direct contact with cosmetics to which the skin is sensitive. Symptoms include red rash, swelling and itching. Mostly caused by chemicals like D&C, FD&C, C.I. colors and aluminum lakes, chemical preservatives & perfumes, alcohol and chemical foam boosters in shampoos and skin cleansing gels.

AHA (Alpha-Hydroxy Acids): Used in anti-wrinkle products. Paul Penders uses glycolymer derived from sugar cane; it is a natural form of AHA with the smallest molecule to better penetrate the skin, and is considered the mildest of natural AHA's.

Alcohol: Many cosmetic products contain alcohol (ethanol) in its pure form. It is a "fat-solvent" and dries the hair and skin. It is toxic in large doses. Paul Penders products do NOT contain alcohol.

Alginate Sea Minerals: Obtained from seaweed and used as a natural emulsifier, thickener and stabilizer in our shampoos and hair care products; it makes the hair feel softer and shinier as well.

Allantoin: Helps to heal wounds and skin irritations and stimulate growth of healthy tissue.

Allergic Reaction: An adverse immune response from the body following repeated contact with cosmetics. Though natural ingredients in cosmetics lessen the chance of allergic reactions, when compared to chemical ingredients, allergic reaction can always happen. (See: Adverse Response)

Aloe Vera: Used medicinally for thousands of years for effective healing of burns and injuries. Wonderful in cosmetics as a soothing and moisturizing agent.

Alpinia: A traditional Malaysian rainforest herb with medicinal and cosmetic value documented for thousands of years. Alpinia grows in the jungle of Malaysia, medicinally used to heal a variety of ailments from bronchitis to cholera, joint and ligament pains and skin diseases as well. An excellent and powerful astringent for cosmetics and we proudly use it in the Paul Penders Alpinia cleanser for oily skin.

Aluminum Lake: (See colors)

Angelica: Mild anti-microbial herb that soothes irritations. A part of Paul Penders LevensESSENTIE™ 23 herbal extract.

Animal Tests: A most cruel, unnecessary & outdated method of testing cosmetics and their ingredients on rabbits, apes, dogs and other animals. Rabbits are used most often because they don't have tear ducks. So when substances are put in their eyes they will not dilute from tears. Some progress has been made over the last few years but animal tests are still widely practiced by cosmetic manufacturers worldwide. Sometimes performed outside their own facilities, some of these manufacturers still state that their products are "not animal tested" or "cruelty-free". The LD50 and Draize tests are most commonly used. Paul Penders became one of the first animal-rights activists 25 years ago when he discovered the cruelty going on in cosmetic research labs. He vowed to stop these barbaric testing methods. His native Holland in 1996 was the first country in the world to officially ban animal testing for cosmetic products and their ingredients.

Anti-Oxidants: Preservatives that prevent fats from spoiling. Paul Penders uses a natural anti-oxidant, tocopherols (vitamin E), derived from wheatgerm.

Arnica: A herb that is part of the LevensESSENTIE™ 23 herbal extract that promotes healing and stimulates circulation; also used as a natural anti-irritant in Paul Penders scalp products.

Aromatherapy: The use of essential oils for healing. Their use in cosmetics goes back thousands of years (see inside this guide).

Avocado: The oil from this green fruit is an excellent skin emollient with high levels of vitamins A and C.

Calming Flower Essential Oil: A special blend of fine aromatic and essential oils created by Paul Penders that has a soothing, healing and calming effect on the mood. Used in Paul Penders Shower Gel and Body Lotion.

Camphor: Calms the skin and reduces redness. Used in its natural form, crushed.

Candelilla Wax: Derived from a shrub native to Mexico. Used as an emollient and to protect the skin from moisture loss.

Caramel: A natural coloring agent, also soothing. Made by heating sugar.

Carbomer: A thickening agent used for Paul Penders mascara.

Carmine: The natural red color pigment used in Paul Penders lipsticks, blushers; obtained from the extract of cochineal. A safe replacement for the chemical colors like FD&C, D&C, C.I. colors and aluminum lakes. Currently these chemical colors are under scrutiny of health organizations including the FDA.

Carnauba Wax: Used as an emollient and stabilizer in creams, and protects the skin from moisture loss.

Carotene: (see Beta-Carotene)

Ceramides: (see Acido-AlphaHydroxyl Ceramides)

Cetyl Alcohol: This is NOT a (drying) alcohol (ethanol) but an emollient and stabilizer that is used in the Paul Penders lipsticks and is of vegetable source.

Chamomile: A great and powerful herb that tones, has a calming quality, improves tissue regeneration and soothes the skin. Part of LevensESSENTIE™ 23 herbal extract.

Chamomile Essential Oil: A spicy relaxing scent, healing and antiseptic; beneficial for skin and hair care.

Chamomile Extract: Paul Penders natural skin whitening agent that works well in combination with green tea extract, rice fermentation and a super-high dose of vitamin C. It helps to slow down the transportation of melanin to the skin's surface, as well as inhibiting UV-induced formation of melanin.

Chlorophyll: The green coloring substance of green leaves and plants which plays an important role in the plant's photosynthesis process. Used as a natural green color in Paul Penders shower gels and body lotions for their unique natural deodorizing qualities.

Citric Acid: Derived from citrus fruits by fermentation and used as a preservative.

C.I. colors: (see coal tar)

Clay: Deep-cleansing and highly absorbent, kaolin and green clay are two types of natural clay having excellent healing qualities that Paul Penders uses in his Blemish Away! and ICT (Intensive Clarifying Therapy) (see inside manual).

Cleansing: To dissolve sebum, loosen particles of makeup and facilitate the removal of dirt by products that usually contain mineral oils, TEA, ethanol, methyl, butyl and propyl parabens, lanolin, propylene glycol and sodium lauryl sulfates, which are all a common cause of allergic reactions. Paul Penders does not use these chemicals but instead uses natural, gentle cleansers made of LevensESSENTIE™ herb extract, plant oils and NO chemical emulsifiers.

Coal Tar: Thick liquid tar obtained from bituminous coal containing benzene, xylenes, naphthalene, phenol and creosol. A main concern of the FDA is that coal tar causes cancer in animals (and people). Also, they are a frequent source of allergic reactions. The FDA ruled in 1992 that it has not been shown to be safe and coal tar also is not effective for some stated cosmetic claims. Most FD&C, D&C, C.I. and aluminum lakes are derived from coal tar. Many people consider this a hidden health hazard because (mostly) women use lipsticks containing heavy toxic chemicals for up to 18 hours a day. These chemicals make up about 14% of each lipstick in 99% of all lipsticks available on the market today...

Cocoa Bean Shell Extract: Helps drain excess water from body cells and breaks down stubborn fat deposits. (see inside this guide at: Body Firming & Cellulite Serum).

Comfrey: A unique herb with toning and astringent characteristics that is part of our LevensESSENTIE™ 23 herbal extract. Soothing and a powerful healer that aids in the regeneration of healthy new skin cells.

Cornstarch: Used as a natural base for Paul Penders Translucent Powders.

Cypress Essential Oil: Strong anti-depressant and healer of cramps, colds and flus.

Ginger: Stimulates and cleanses and is part of Paul Penders LevensESSENTIE™ 23 herb extract.

Ginseng Extract: Improves circulation, especially beneficial to aging skin.

Ginseng Root: Grown in China, widely used in oriental medicine and a part of Paul Penders LevensESSENTIE™ 23 herb extract that strongly stimulates circulation.

Glycerides: Natural texturizers and emollients for skin care and hair care products.

Glycerin (vegetable): A humectant and emollient; it absorbs moisture from the air thereby keeping skin at better moisture levels, providing the skin with a softer feel. Helps retain moisture levels in creams and helps the product spread better. Many glycerins are animal derived; Paul Penders only uses glycerin from a vegetable source.

Glycolymer: Paul Penders natural source of AHA (Alpha-Hydroxy-Acids) that is derived from rhubarb. It aids the skin in shedding dead skin cells thus exposing softer smoother skin beneath.

Grapefruit Extract: Used as one of the pillars of the natural preservative system for all of the Paul Penders products.

Green Tea Extract: Works towards whitening the skin by actively slowing the transportation of melanin to the skin's surface and also has well-known anti-oxidant qualities (see chamomile extract).

Holy Basil: An aromatic and spicy fine herb; a stimulant that is even being used to treat headaches. Also used as an insecticide by traditional people in Malaysia. Excellent to cleanse and tone the scalp and for hair care in general.

Honeysuckle: Herb with strong anti-inflammatory qualities and is a part of the LevensESSENTIE™ 23 herbal extract.

Hops: Has a calming effect on the nervous system and strengthening effect on the skin; is a part of Paul Penders LevensESSENTIE™ 23 herbal extract.

Horsetail: Much used in China to accelerate the healing process of bones and wounds. It is a mild diuretic, rich in minerals and part of our LevensESSENTIE™ 23 herbal extract.

Hyaluronic Acid: A moisturizing ingredient that can hold up to 10 times its weight in water. Paul Penders only uses vegetable sourced hyaluronic acid.

Jojoba Oil: An excellent emollient used for thousands of years by the Mexicans and Indians. A carrier of essential oils. Jojoba oil will soften the skin and it protects and gives extra shine to hair.

Lavender: A fascinating herb with characteristic fresh fragrance; used to soothe, strengthen, and balance the mood. It is an integral part of Paul Penders LevensESSENTIE™ 23 herb extract.

Lavender Essential Oil: Because of its qualities and fine fragrance, a true Paul Penders favorite essential oil. We use it in many of our products; pure or mixed as a blend with different essential oils that have similar characteristics.

LD50 Test: Cruelty to animals that is kept alive by insurance companies, old-fashioned governments, cosmetic companies or researchers who don't care to search for more humane methods that are reportedly even better. (Why use animals to test products that are for use by humans? Why not test cosmetics on humans?). Animal tests are still performed by many large cosmetic companies. They are either done in-house or by an outside animal-testing lab. The number "50" of LD50 stands for 50%. When 50% of the animals being used for a test die as a result of forced consumption of the cosmetic products or their ingredients, the remaining animals still alive will be killed. Then research is done on possible changes in their tissues. LD50 and Draize tests are most cruel, and the sad thing is: animal tests do not prove anything. New testing methods are being developed (in-vitro) and more and more people are demanding a ban on animal tests for cosmetics.

Lemon Balm: Used to tone and improve circulation and part of the LevensESSENTIE™ 23 herb extract.

Lemon Essential Oil: Essential oil pressed from lemons and has a fresh scent. It reduces sebum production and is beneficial for aging skin. Paul Penders uses lemon essential oil that is produced in Europe, and is considered the best available. The fragrance is superior to other regions of the world.

LevensESSENTIE™ Herbal Extract: Paul Penders' family recipe of an extraction of 21 "Western" and "Chinese" herbs that were studied for many years and chosen for their beneficial ability to beautify, stimulate, cleanse and strengthen the skin. An extract used for many years with basically no changes. Only recently the herbal extract has been expanded with new herbs: 2 Malaysian Rainforest herbs: pegaga and tumeric. These 2 herbs are traditionally used by Malaysian people who know of their wonderful healing and purifying qualities for both medicinal and beautifying use. The addition of these 2 new herbs makes LevensESSENTIE™ a 23 herbal extract and makes for a synergistic effect. They work better and stronger when combined than when used on their own. The University of Technology in Malaysia is currently researching LevensESSENTIE™.

LevensESSENTIE™ 23 herb extract dry and pulverized: Same herbs as above but in dry form. Added to Paul Penders products that are not in liquid form, like powders.

Linseed Oil: Yellowish oil expressed from flaxseed that gradually thickens when exposed to the air. Paul Penders uses linseed oil in his mascaras.

Marigold Extract: (see calendula)

Marjoram Essential Oil: Essential oil of sweet marjoram that can easily penetrate the skin.

Menthol:For a nice cool feeling to the skin; obtained from peppermint oil.

Olive Oil: A mineral-rich oil, much superior to mineral (white) oil like paraffin and vaseline oil. It has a great skin penetrating power. It is pressed from ripe olives grown around the Mediterranean Sea. Here is a true story: Paul Penders first shampoos (25 years ago) were made with olive oil after he noticed so many women in Italy with beautiful long, shiny and full-bodied hair. They told him their secret: Once a week a scalp massage with olive oil, leaving the oil in for an entire night, and wash with a very gentle shampoo in the morning. Today, Paul Penders shampoos contain a new technology: olive oil glycerides. Pure olive oil as a natural cleansing agent; the mildest form of cleansing of the hair. GREATEST RESULTS are being reported.

Olive Oil Emulsifiers: Emulsifiers (see emulsion) made from pure olive oil. Paul Penders products do not contain chemical emulsifiers in any of their products.

Olive Oil Glycerides: (see olive oil)

Orange Essential Oil: Expressed from the fresh peel of the ripe Orange and refreshing and stimulating.

Orangeblossom Essential Oil: Expressed from the leaves of orangeblossoms; very calming and healing.

Oxygen: Convince yourself and read about "ICT" (Intensive Clarifying Treatment) in this product guide for an extensive explanation of the pure benefits of oxygen in natural skin care.

Parabens: (see preservatives). The most commonly used preservatives in cosmetics today are parabens, with a broad spectrum of anti-microbial activity. However, many people complain about adverse skin reactions to parabens that include skin rashes and irritations. Paul Penders does NOT use parabens or other chemical preservatives in his products, but instead a natural preservative system based on vitamins A, E and C, acetic acid and grapefruit extract.

Paraffin: Colorless, distilled from coal, petroleum or shale oil. Makes cheap products and can cause skin irritations and eczema. Paraffin is not absorbed by the skin like olive oil. Therefore paraffin has no specific benefit or value to skin care.

Pegaga : Another new and great discovery by Paul Penders from living and working in tropical rainforests in Malaysia. Pegaga, proudly added as an important part of our famousLevensESSENTIE™ herbal extract. The usage of this plant is of OUTSTANDING importance in Malaysia. Recommended by the World Health Organization as one of the most important medicinal plant species to be conserved. In Malaysia, traditional herbal healers have used pegaga for thousands of years. Its popularity though is more as a vegetable rather than a medicine! Many women in this tropical rainforest country use extract of pegaga leaves to preserve youthfulness. In the medicinal world, pegaga is used as a diuretic, for eczema, for bleeding wounds, bruises and rashes. It accelerates healing. It cleanses skin impurities and improves blood circulation. Paul Penders uses pegaga for his Intense Scalp Cleanser with good results for light dandruff, eczema and itching. Remember: a healthy scalp produces healthy hair.

Peppermint: A part of the LevensESSENTIE™ 23 herb extract. Purifies with antiseptic, anti-inflammatory characteristics that cools and soothes.

Petitgrain Essential Oil: Light, refreshing and aromatic. Oil obtained from the leaf and unripe fruit of the bitter orange tree.

Plantago: The use of this plant targets the cleansing system of the body. A strong astringent, it treats infections, cuts, bruises, sores and swellings. In Malaysia boiled leaves are being used on wounds with salt. The excellent soothing qualities of plantago make it an excellent ingredient for modern natural skin care to be used for around the eyes. It also reduces puffiness around the eyes as well.

Plant Gel: (see xanthan gum)

Preservatives: (see parabens)

Pycnogenol: Pine bark extract that acts as a powerful anti-oxidant to neutralize free radicals that contribute to premature aging.

Rice Fermentation Extract: Extract of glucose and rice culture that prohibits the formation of melanin, resulting in even skin-lightening effects. (see chamomile)

Ricinus Oil : A superb conditioner that has been proven to strengthen the hair shaft.

Rose Essential Oil: The fragrant volatile essential oil distilled from fresh flowers. Calming and soothing effect on mood and body.

Rosemary: Part of LevensESSENTIE™ 23 herb extract, rosemary herb warms while stimulating circulation and metabolic processes.

Rosemary Essential Oil: Has a woodsy and warm quality. It is uplifting and eases mental fatigue. Its astringent and antiseptic nature stimulates metabolic processes in the skin's dermal layer.

Sesame Oil: The oil of sesame is used as a skin softener.

Silk Powder: A natural fiber used in Paul Penders Translucent Powder giving it the finest texture.

Skin-Whitening: (see hydroquinone). Paul Penders does NOT use hydroquinone but uses a safe alternative for skin-whitening purposes based on four natural ingredients that create a synergistic action.

Sodium Benzoate: An antiseptic and preservative.

Soybean Oil : A vitamin rich emollient that absorbs well into the skin. Has a nourishing, softening and moisturizing effect on skin.

Sprirulina: An extract of "Spirula"; a many-chambered shell coiled in flat spirals that occurs in most tropical seas.

St. John's Wort: A part of the LevensESSENTIE&#trade; 23 herb extract used to tone, strengthen and heal. It is a most valuable and amazing beneficial herb with calming qualities for the skin.

Stearic Acid : Waxy substance derived from various sources used in cosmetics to aid in stability of a cream or lotion by giving it structure and stability. Also aids as a gentle emulsifier to bind water and oil parts. We use stearic acid derived from natural plant sources.

Sulfur: A mild antiseptic and stimulant to healing when used on skin rashes, also stimulates the scalp. Used in acne products. Paul Penders uses sulfur from a plant source.

Vitamin B: (see Panthenol)

Vitamin C: A natural preservative and anti-oxidant; also being used by Paul Penders (in higher doses and in combination with other natural ingredients) as a pure, natural and effective skin whitener.

Vitamin E: A powerful natural anti-oxidant, used in combination with Vitamins A and C as a natural preservative. It slows down signs of aging and the degeneration of skin cells.